Paddling into History: Weedon Island

By Mary Kelley Hoppe

It’s a lazy summer morning as we launch our canoe at Weedon Island Preserve and begin threading our way around dense mangrove islands and into a hidden world that offers sweet reprieve from the scorching sun. The quiet lagoons are filled with stingrays and leaping mullet are regular performers, rocketing into the air in straight formation before splashing down to the water. The shallow seagrass beds that carpet the inlets are popular fishing grounds for snook and sheepshead.

But it is the interior of these islands that beckon us this morning. A mix of natural and altered, these narrow passages take paddlers through dense stands of mangrove trees, some reaching 40 feet into the air. Many of these trails are actually arrow-straight mosquito ditches dug in the 1950s. Battling back the invasive pepper trees that threaten to overtake the mangroves poses a constant challenge to conservation managers.

Other winding trails have been carved through dense mangrove stands that have remained in their natural state. Both offer shelter f
rom the sun and a bird’s-eye look at wildlife that abounds in the waters and roots of the mangrove trees.
Masses of oysters cling to the mangrove roots. Swarming the branches are black mangrove crabs, a delicacy to the yellow-crowned night herons that wait in the wings. Snook ply the waters hunting for small fishes.

The rich estuaries and coastal resources surrounding what is now known as the Weedon Island Preserve in northeast St. Petersburg attracted nomadic human populations at least 5,000 years ago. The area boasts a fascinating history, from its contributions to the Manasota culture from about 500 BC to AD 900 and the evolution of the Weeden culture that lasted some 800 years to AD 1200, followed by a colorful role in the 1920s and 30s, when it became home to speakeasies, a Hollywood-style movie studio and an airport.

An excellent place to start is the Cultural and Natural History Center that helps visitors interpret the natural, cultural and archeological significance of the 3,700-acre preserve. Built in 2002, the center highlights the island’s prehistoric culture and traditions with architecture and exhibits.

The first cue that the building wasn’t designed using traditional techniques is its east-facing entrance – the parking lot is on the west. Designed with the help of Native American consultants, the building features a curved roof that resembles wings and is open to seven directions recognized by the First People: upper, lower and present worlds, as well as the four compass points.

The center seems to rise from the ground as a physical representation of the area’s history.

From there, hikers and nature enthusiasts can traverse almost two miles of handicap-accessible boardwalks and trails extending through tidal flats and mangrove forests, providing viewing opportunities over saltwater ponds that are often teeming with mullet and wading birds. Paved trails connecting the boardwalk loops take visitors through a pine flatwoods community. And along the west boardwalk stands a 45-foot observation tower, providing visitors with excellent views of the preserve as well as Tampa Bay and the cities of St. Petersburg and Tampa.

Amenities:
Three miles of hiking trails, 2 paddling trails, fishing pier, observation tower, picnic areas, and almost 2 miles of handicap-accessible boardwalks.

Events:
Check weedonislandcenter.org or call 727-453-6500 for a list of events and programs, including guided hikes, art shows and speaker series in their 85-seat auditorium.

Kayak rentals:
Sweetwater Kayaks offers rentals and tours of Weedon Island. Call 727-570-4844 for more information or email theshop@sweetwaterkayaks.com

Hours:
The gated preserve is open daily from dawn to dusk.

Getting there:
From Gandy Blvd. just east of Derby Lane, turn south onto San Martin Blvd. and follow the signs to the park.