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 Exploring the Upper Hillsborough RiverBy Neil Mingledorff Jr.
Fed by headwaters from the primordial Green Swamp north of Lakeland, the river really begins when it meets Crystal Springs in Pasco County. One of the most fascinating natural occurrences I've ever witnessed is the clear sparkling water of the spring - an estimated 40 million gallons per day - mingling with the tannin-stained water from the Green Swamp. The upper river offers paddlers of varying experience levels several excellent options, from two- to four-hour jaunts along a 34-mile canoe trail stretching from Crystal Springs to Rowlett Park just north of the City of Tampa reservoir. One of the most exquisite journeys is within Hillsborough River State Park, located in Thonotosassa near U.S. Hwy. 301. Visitors are often amazed to discover this natural beauty - part of a 16,000-acre wilderness area spanning more than 20 miles of riverfront - in the midst of one of the nation's fastest-growing urban areas. Part of the wilderness area is owned by the Southwest Florida Water Management District and is protected from development of any kind. That allows the massive live oaks and bald cypress trees to dominate the riverbanks just as they have for centuries. In some parts of the river, root systems of cypress trees - called cypress knees - stand straight up out of the water. Although it's debatable whether these "knees" actually provide significant benefits, such as extra support or aerating the root system, they clearly add to the beauty and mystery of these magnificent trees. The park also features an extraordinary vision for a Florida river - rapids. While small in size (class II) and short in length, most paddlers should probably avoid this section. Depending upon water levels, this section can be either a long portage in low water or an unexpected whitewater experience with high water levels. After passing through the park, the slow-moving river winds its way to a swamp area known as Seventeen Runs, appropriate only for experienced paddlers. Here, the river splits into numerous narrow channels that can be difficult to navigate. Experienced paddlers never get lost, although we occasionally get "misplaced." Such are the risks we're willing to take to explore wild, pristine areas like Seventeen Runs, which boast an incredible array of wildlife. Deer, otters, turkeys and a variety of wading and shore birds abound, along with some of the area's largest alligators, legends say. When the river merges with Flint Creek, it widens again and becomes the unofficial gathering place for "the gator club." These guys are not orange and blue and swimming is definitely not recommended! From Flint Creek and nearby Sergeants Park, a typical two-hour paddle takes you down a narrow and beautifully vegetated section with an abundance of ferns and wading birds to Morris Bridge Park which offers picnic tables, restrooms and hiking trails. Moments later, approaching the school district's Nature's Classroom, a strange and eerie sight appears: trees and riverbanks blanketed with massive turkey and black vultures. In winter months, these creatures stake out a claim to this river section, giving no indication that they care to leave. The river broadens as it enters the Trout Creek Wilderness Park, but narrows again after passing through the flood control dam. This section offers a shaded canopy of trees as it winds its way down to Lettuce Lake Park marking the end of Hillsborough River Wilderness Park system. During nesting season in the months of March through May, this wide-open area may be one of the best places to observe an incredible gathering of wading birds such as roseate spoonbills, wood storks, herons, egrets and limpkins, as well as osprey, owls and red-shouldered hawks. The bright pink color of the aptly named roseate spoonbill vividly stands out against the browns and greens of the river and shoreline vegetation. This graceful bird opens its long spoon-shaped beak and moves it back and forth in the water until it bumps a small fish, then clamps down to secure it. Nearby, an endangered wood stork - a "giant" among wading birds - shakes its feet in shallow water to disperse little fish, then snaps them up in its long black beak. My Hillsborough River experiences bring me incredible peace and somehow help me feel a connection to our ancestors. In many of these places, the banks hold the secrets of our past. Yet this beautiful river also holds the key to our future, since the City of Tampa obtains 80 percent of its drinking water from this magnificent water source. The preservation and nurturing of this liquid gem is vital to our future. No matter which of these sections you explore, this back-bay adventure is one you're sure to enjoy. Getting There
Neil Mingledorff Jr., former water conservation coordinator for the City of Tampa, operates Oak Haven River Retreat on the Hillsborough River just north of Fowler Avenue. |
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When I first paddled the Hillsborough River in the late 1970s, I was amazed that a river this beautiful and wild existed so close to Tampa. With waters changing from crystal clear to the color of tea, the river transports lucky travelers back to a time when Seminole Indians and Florida Crackers roamed its banks. Thankfully, the river's upper reaches have changed little over the past 20-plus years.
Located about nine miles north of Tampa on U.S. 301 in Thonotosassa, Hillsborough River State Park offers canoeing, camping, swimming and hiking. Canoes can be rented from Hillsborough River State Park (813-987-6771), Oak Haven River Retreat, which also rents riverfront cottages (813-988-4580), and Canoe Escape (813-986-2067). For additional information on river recreation facilities, contact Hillsborough County Parks Department (813-975-2160), the Southwest Florida Water Management District (800-423-1476) or visit these websites: